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FAQ

DTF, is otherwise known as Direct To Film. This printing technique involves printing any design and color directly onto a film and then transferring it to any material such as cotton, polyester and linen with a simple 15 second heat press.

Cotton is generally seen as the best fabric for DTF printing, but polyester or a blend of cotton
and polyester are both suitable for DTF printing.

A PNG file with a minimum of 300 DPI and a transparent background.

There is no minimum order for custom DTF transfers.

The turnaround time for DTF printing orders is extremely quick. If the artwork you have
supplied is ready to be printed; it will be printed on the same business day the order is made,
provided it is placed by 1PM CST. After that time, it will be printed the following day and
handed over to UPS. Shipping times may vary

Due to the nature of this product and how each and every product is a custom printed product -
We DO NOT offer returns.
If something on your print doesn't look correct, feel free to email us @ info@superiorheattransfers.com
We will offer a re-print.
We are NOT responsible for any mistakes made while heat pressing the film onto a garment.

Our films can ONLY be transferred using a heat press. DO NOT USE AN IRON!
A heat press that shows the time and temp and allows for 60lbs of pressure will give you great results!

Direct to Film Heat Pressing Instructions

Polyester: 275°F for 10 seconds
Tri-Blends - 275°F for 10 seconds
50/50 - 300°F for 12 seconds
100% Cotton - 325°F for 15 seconds
60lbs of Pressure / Heavy Pressure

1. No Need To Pre-Press:Removing moisture is unnecessary. Only do a prepress if you so
desire.
2. Position Your Design: Take your time to line up your transfer in the desired location on your
item. Normally, there is no need to use heat-resistant tape on flat heat presses to keep your
design in place, however it is highly recommended when pressing transfers onto hats.
3. Press Your Design: Each type of fabric requires a certain amount of heat and time. Please
refer to the list above. Always use heavy pressure when pressing the films.
4. Let It Cool. Then Peel It: After pressing, let your transfer rest until it is cool to the touch
(minimum of 15-30 seconds). Once cool, lift the transfer from one corner and gently peel
back. We have a saying - don’t use your hands, use your EYES. This ensures every piece of
your design is adhering to your item. If not, stop peeling, lay it back down, and trouble shoot
as follows -- (1.) If some or all of the design does not transfer AND it was cool when peeling,
it means there was not enough heat, pressure, or time. Press your transfer again with more
pressure and time first (+5-10 seconds). (2.) If that doesn’t work, try 15°F heat increments
until you find the sweet spot. You truly cannot damage the transfer by pressing multiple
times.
5. Final Press & Wash Instructions: Place the parchment paper over the design and press
again for 15 seconds to soften the design, increase durability, and remove shine. If you want
a shiny finish, cover with a protective guard sheet for the final press. When washing, flip the
shirt inside out, wash on cold and dry using low heat or hang.

1. Left Chest

The classic left chest placement is back in style. It's small, modest, and the go to for providing logo shirts for employees, and staff for an event or anything really. A left chest print is often paired with a full back.

  • Size range: 2.5"-4.5" w, 2.5"-4.5" h
  • Average size: 3.5" w x 2" h adult, 2.5"w x 1.5"h youth
  • Standard placement: Approx. 3" down from the bottom of the collar, centered at the edge of the collar, or 4-6" over from the centerline
  • Alternative placement: Right chest is less typical, but sometimes used

Pro tip: Printing on pocket tees is an option, and typically the logo goes above the pocket, a higher placement than normal. If you want to print on the pocket, keep the design smaller than 3"x 3"h.

2. Center Chest

Exactly where you'd expect it, Center Chest is located just below the collar and centered across the chest. This is a moderately sized print, so it's almost always fully visible, even if someone is wearing a jacket, hoodie, or open button-down shirt. Superman's famous "S" is a Center Chest.

  • Size range: 6"-10" w, 2"-10" h
  • Average size: 8" w x 4" h adult, 6"w x 3"h youth
  • Standard placement: 3" down (4 fingers) from the bottom of the collar, centered.
  • Alternative placement: A small center chest size print can also go on the bottom left or right.

Pro tip: If your garment sizes range all the way from youth to adult 3XL, you may want to consider using two different print sizes so your design will look proportional. A center chest can look large on extra small shirts and small on extra large ones.

3. Full Front

Probably the most common print placement is the Full Front. This size is larger than a Center Chest but not completely maxed out. It's great for featuring artistic graphics, like a concert tee. It may be too big for logos and designs with much coverage (consider a Center Chest instead).

  • Size range: 10"-12" w, 10"-14" h
  • Average size: 11" w x 11" h adult, 9"w x 9"h youth
  • Standard placement: 3" down (4 fingers) from the bottom of the collar
  • Alternative placement: Full Back with a Left Chest on the front

Pro tip: If your design isn't very tall, you can print it wider, up to 14". If it's a square or circle, consider reducing the overall size. Think about print area similar to the square footage of a house. Too much coverage results in a heavy print that's not breathable, also known as a "sweat patch."

4. Sleeve (left or right)

This list would not be complete without the Sleeve. Like the Left Chest or Collar, reserve this print placement for more simplified artwork. And like the other placements, the size and placement should depend on your particular logo or design. Generally, sleeve prints look better at small size.

  • Size range: 1"-3.5" w, 1"-3.5" h
  • Average size: 2.5" w x 1" h adult, 1.5"w x 1"h youth
  • Standard placement: Approx. 1" above the top edge of the seam, centered.
  • Alternative placement: On the shoulder can work well for circular designs

Pro tip: If you're already printing a Left Chest on the shirt and are adding a sleeve print, choose the right sleeve to balance it out. Otherwise, either sleeve will work. Bonus tip: An American flag on the sleeve should always have the stars facing toward the front.

5. Collar / Small Upper Back

After initially starting as an alternative location, the collar placement has become a standard. Logos and designs can be printed very small in this placement. You may notice this print placement while waiting in line behind someone– it's right at eye level. Also works well for the small area on racerback tank tops.

  • Size range: 1"-3"w, 1"-3"h
  • Average size: 2"w x 2"h adult, 1.5"w x 1.5"h youth
  • Standard placement: Approx. 1"-2" down from the back collar, centered.
  • Alternative placement: A front print in the same location is called "medallion."

Pro tip: You can combine a Full Back with a Back Collar in a single print. Set up the artwork, so there is a space between the two designs–about 2 or 3 inches, depending on the design. The rest of the design will end up where a normal Full Back would be.

6. Upper Back

An Upper Back print placement is often simply called "Back," butt the critical distinction is that the placement goes up across the shoulder blades rather than vertically centered. This is typically where you will see the bold words "SECURITY," "EVENT STAFF," or the hashtag of the moment. Larger logos also work well.

  • Size range: 10"-14" w, 2"-6" h
  • Average size: 12" w x 4" h adult, 10"w x 2.5"h youth
  • Standard placement: Approx. 4" down from collar (rather than a front print), centered.
  • Alternative placement: Across the butt, near the bottom hem. The tradeoff is less visibility.

Pro tip: If your text is at the maximum width and doesn't look big enough, consider using a taller font rather than stretching the font to be taller (which distorts it and makes it less legible). Look for any font with "Bold Extra Compressed" in the title, or a font that is naturally tall, such as "Impact."

7. Full Back

The Full Back is another common location. Similar to the Full Front, but usually larger and printed slightly lower. This print placement rarely exists on its own and is usually complemented by a print on the front. It's a great place to put your most colorful, elaborate designs and save simple ones for other locations.

  • Size range: 11"-13" w, 13"-15" h
  • Average size: 12" w x 14" h adult, 10"w x 12"h youth
  • Standard placement: Approx. 4" down from the bottom of the collar, centered

Pro tip: If you're making T-shirts for an event and have sponsor logos to be printed, sponsorship levels are often represented by tiers. The logos at the top of the shirt are the largest and most prominent (highest-tier sponsors), with the logos below that are sized at smaller tiers.

8. Oversize Front/Back

Anything bigger than a standard-sized Full Front or Full Back is an Oversized print. Keep in mind restrictions due to garment size before setting up your design. For example, oversized prints don't fit youth, more petite ladies' sizes, tank tops, v-necks, etc. In those cases, use different print sizes.

  • Size range: 12"-15" w, 14"-16" h
  • Average size: 13" w x 15" h adult, 10"w x 12"h youth
  • Standard placement: Approx. 2" down (3 fingers) from the bottom of the collar, centered

Pro tip: Print out your design at full desired size using your home or office printer. You can "tile" the design (one of the print options), then tape the pages together, cut off the edges, and place on the garment to be printed to see if it fits in real life.